Free guide

Thinking of switching? Read this first.

The Trap Register shows you where your cover falls short. The next question is usually "do I switch, or stay and fix it?" Here's how to do either without getting caught — plus a straight answer on what a broker actually does for you, and how they make their money.

First: cheapest is not best

A lower premium almost always buys something away — a bigger excess, a lower cap on temporary accommodation or hidden water, or an extra exclusion. Before you move for price, compare the things that actually pay out at claim time. That's the whole point of the register: the excess, the sub-limits and the exclusions, side by side.

How to switch without getting caught

01
Never cancel first.

Keep your current policy live until the new one has actually started. Set the new cover to begin the day the old one ends, so you're never uninsured — even a one-day gap can leave a loss uncovered.

02
Disclose everything, in writing.

You must tell the new insurer the material facts — past claims, known risks, the state of the home. Getting this wrong, even by accident, can let them cut or decline a future claim. Answer every question fully.

03
Set the sum insured correctly.

Most NZ house policies are "sum insured" — if the rebuild figure is too low, you carry the gap. Don't copy the old number blindly; use a current rebuild estimate.

04
Check the excess and the sub-limits, not just the premium.

Compare the natural-hazard excess and the caps on the things you'd actually claim. A $200 cheaper premium can hide a $20,000 lower cap.

05
Switch at renewal.

Renewal is the low-friction moment to move. Note any cooling-off period on the new policy in case you change your mind.

Your pre-renewal checklist

Built straight from the documented traps in the register — the specific things worth asking your insurer before you renew or switch. Tick them off, or print the list and take it to the call.

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Want your own policy checked?

This checklist tells you what to ask. The personal scan reads your actual policy against every insurer and hands you the answers — where you're capped, where you trail the market, and the traps in your exact wording. See what we find free; unlock the full report for $29.

Scan my policy →

What about a broker?

A broker (or "financial adviser") can be genuinely useful — but it helps to understand how they're paid before you rely on their recommendation.

How they make their money

Most brokers earn a commission from the insurer, built into your premium — so their advice feels free, but it isn't neutral. Some charge a fee instead, or as well. Under New Zealand's CoFI regime, advisers must disclose how they're paid and manage conflicts of interest. You're entitled to ask them straight out: "How are you paid on this policy?"

When a broker is worth it

For a complex or high-value risk, an unusual property that's hard to place, and above all for claims advocacy — having someone whose job is to fight your corner when a claim gets difficult. That's the real value: not the quote, the claim.

What a broker won't tell you

Brokers don't place business with the direct-only insurers — AA, State and AMI — so a broker is not whole-of-market. Their panel is a slice of the market, chosen partly by who pays commission. Always compare their recommendation against the direct insurers yourself — which is exactly what the register lets you do for free.

See where your cover actually stands.

Explore the free register to compare insurers, or have the personal scan read your exact policy against all of them.

This is general information to help you read your own policy and ask better questions — not personalised financial advice, and it doesn't determine what is or isn't covered. Insurer rules, wordings and the CoFI disclosure regime change; always verify with your insurer or a licensed financial adviser before you switch.